I had only been to Bologna once and that was just passing through on the train, which really doesn’t count. So, when the opportunity arose to go there for the weekend, of course the answer was yes!
Being a fairly short journey from Rome (just two hours and twenty minutes), it was cheap and easy to get to. It never fails to amaze me how much cheaper train travel is in Italy. Plus the trains, in general run on time and are great. There’s the odd strike but my experience with Italian trains has been so much more positive here. Plus the Freccia Rossa is so smooth, high-quality, fast and convenient. I can’t recommend it highly enough.
Arriving fairly early in the morning, I had the chance to go on a full on wander of the city. I am one of those annoying people that doesn’t like to ask for directions and worse still, get a map out or the navigation app… There is 100% no denying that I am a foreigner here. Many place me as Northern European, often German or Skandinavian. However, despite being so obviously foreign, I can’t stand doing anything to make me stand out even more as a foreigner. Ha ha! I think it annoys many people that I go away with…
So, of course I went in totally the wrong direction for the city centre on my first outing. I’ve got to say, the more modern part of Bologna is not so beautiful and for a second, I was wondering what the big deal about this place was. However, when I finally righted my positioning and found myself in the Centro Storico, I finally got to see what all the fuss was about. Bologna does not disappoint. The Centro Storico is a UNESCO World Heritage site, recognised for its outstanding universal value and cultural significance. Its well-preserved medieval architecture and rich history make it a must-visit destination for history buffs and art-lovers alike.
The city is nestled in the heart of Emilia-Romagna and is a vibrant city, a treasure trove of history, culture and culinary delights. The old part of the city is home to the Two Towers or Due Torri, which have now been cordoned off, in fear that they may collapse. One of the towers actually has a greater lean than the Leaning Tower of Pisa! These medieval towers, Asinelli and Garisenda, date back to the 12th Century and when you were able to ascend them, offered panoramic views of the city. Between the 12th and 13th Century, Bologna was a city full of towers, the highest being some 97m high. Over the years though, they began to be demolished or crumbled themselves. The reason for these towers is unclear but it is thought that they might have been used for reasons of defence by rich families.
The city also houses the oldest university in the world, having been founded in 1088. Famous alumni include: the poets Francesco Petrarch and Dante Alighieri, the astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus, the Pope Alexander VI, the physician and occultist Paracelsus, as well as the writer Umberto Eco and the Italian Prime Minister in 1996–1998 and 2006–2008, Romano Prodi.
The Quadrilatero district in the Centro Storico is a food lover’s paradise. There is the bustling market, gourmet shops and traditional trattorias serving up local specialities. Just amazing to see. Unfortunately I arrived with my bags overflowing, there was no chance of me bringing any deliciousness back with me… Probably best for my waistline!
Something that I very nearly got to see in real life (as in I was in the building but ran out of time) was the Anatomical Theatre, a historic lecture hall used for the study of the anatomy. I was totally gutted to have missed this but the building itself was just breath taking. I absolutely recommend a visit there. Allow more time than I did!
The Piazza Maggiore, the main square in the Centro Storico is the heart of Bologna’s social and cultural life. It is also home to the Fountain of Neptune. According to Wikipedia, “The construction of the fountain was commissioned by the Cardinal Legate Charles Borromeo, to symbolise the fortunate recent election of Borromeo’s uncle as Pope Pius IV.” Fun fact, Neptune’s trident inspired the logo for Maserati.
I felt like I was in a totally different Italy to the one that I had to come to know and love in Rome. Obviously, the climate is different in Bologna. Grey skies reminded me of my native England. It was February and of course this was fairly normal weather. Rome, however, has many more blue sky days and in a short time of living here, I had become spoiled by the good weather. Regardless of the weather, Bologna was incredibly beautiful. It had medieval chic and was oozing in culture.
When I told my colleagues that I was headed to Bologna for the weekend, I was advised to wear stretchy trousers! Bologna is a foodie heaven! I absolutely loved everything that was on offer. Of course I had to eat an authentic Bolognese sauce during my stay. Unlike in the UK, this sauce is served on Tagliatelle here, served with a full-bodied glass of red, it was just exquisite. I feel like I didn’t stop eating the whole time that I was there!
As always, this was just a flying visit and I really do need to spend more time here, next time actually visiting places of interest and not just eating! If you ever have the opportunity to visit, do go, you won’t regret it!