My life this academic year is the polar opposite of my life in years gone by. Having once worked all the hours that god sends in a school, giving up outings and meals with family and friends for the sake of catching up/ keeping up with my mammoth workload, I am now free to enjoy trips out during the week, have lazy lunches and even have the occasional glass of wine with it too! Right now, I’m literally living my best life!
So, of course I said yes when one of my private students asked if we could go on a trip to the countryside for a talking and walking lesson! Plus, they have a car, so it was possible to visit somewhere a bit more off the beaten track. If, like me, you had heard Calcata and thought that I was talking about the city in India, you could be forgiven. I also made this comment when first invited on this mini road trip! Well, maybe I didn’t say it aloud, but I certainly felt a bit confused but tried to maintain my poker face!
Calcata, it turns out is in the outer reaches of Lazio. A medieval village nestled in the hills of Lazio, a 45 minute drive from Rome. Abandoned in the 1930s due to fears that a possible landslide would occur, the village stood empty for years. Later, in the 1960s, artists and hippies began to squat in the medieval buildings and Calcata eventually started to come back to life.
Wondering around the cobbled streets on a late November afternoon, the tiny village still feels almost abandoned but I can imagined that in the sunnier, more touristy months, there are plenty of visitors to this picturesque spot. It is clear, however, that there is a close-knit community of artists, writers and musicians that live in this idyllic outcrop. On this particular afternoon, in one of the sunny alleyways, I heard music coming from and open French door above. A man was sitting in a chair, music playing and just enjoying taking in the sun’s rays. What a life, I thought to myself.
As I continued to stroll around I encountered a very inspiring lady, Marina Petroni, who moved to Calcata 48 years ago. Over time, she has created pieces of artwork and jewellery and made a living here. Despite being told that she wasn’t allowed to move here, she did it anyway. Good on her!
I truly recommend a visit here if you have time. The countryside around Calcata is just breathtaking. Sitting in the Treja Valley National Park, between Rome and Viterbo, Calcata itself sits on a tufa limestone plateau, with steep edges. Think of those spectacular hilltop villages that you see on Instagram. Well, this is one of them.
The village, has a medieval centre but actually dates back to the Faliscans who formed part of a pre-Roman Italic civilisation dating back to the Iron Age (IX-VIII century BC). There is a pathway that in Spring and Summer would be perfect to follow that leads through the valley.
Within the village there is a beautiful Romanesque 12th century church, the Church of the Holy Name of Jesus as well as the remains of a medieval castle that once stood guard over the valley below.
I would be lying if I didn’t consider for at least a moment, buying a little place here and taking residence myself. However, the reality is that this is quite an isolated spot. I am much more used to the convenience of town/ city living and so for me, it is the perfect place to visit and dream.
Have you ever visited Calcata or perhaps another hilltop village? Let me know below!
